View Full Version : pup training for hunt test/Feild test
06-23-2003, 07:17 AM
Alright all the labs I have trained were strickly hunting, I hate using a whistle because I think they are anoying out in the field and my lab is trained on hand signels and voice. This weekend I watch Hunting trials in a marsh like situation and I got pump, that is the coolest thing ever.
So Riddle me this,
Question 1: if you train a Lab with whistle will voice commands still be valid or do they get ruled out, (I don't want to have to use a whistle while hunting)
Question 2: What is a good book/movie to train on the whistle and most importantly how to train them to follow your hand signals and the Back command so that they run in a strait line until you stop them?
thanks in advance.
06-23-2003, 08:17 AM
I won't touch the first question about the whistles, because I don't understand how in the world you could handle a dog on a blind without a whistle.
If you train with an e collar, I'd recommend the Tritronics book. It is by far the best retriever training book in my opinion. It will go through step by step tons of drills and methods needed to train a working dog for trial, test or hunting.
If you don't train with a collar, I'd recommend you reconsider, but if not, training your retriever by James Lamb Free is a good book.
There are tons of other books out there, but these are the 2 I got the most out of.
As for switching back to no whistle when hunting, I'd recommend keeping everything as close to the same as possible during tests, training and hunting. It will save on the confusion.
06-23-2003, 10:24 AM
I have used a collar some in the past but my current lab never needed it, but I know they worked wanders when training my Setters years back, So I will probably look into it.
My thing with the whistle is this, you get in the field and forgot your whistle, or anything to that nature, I have a friend that has a whistle trained dog and if you don't have the whistle then that dog isn't minding? The lab I have actually does really really well on blinds but she is really good at marking, so I hardly ever have to worry about it, on the ocasion though she will heal at my side and I will point over her knose in the line I want and say fetch and she will run out until she one sights the down bird or smells it, (She is really good with her knose) I will admit though there has been times were th back command with the whistle would be great on those super long blinds cause those usaully result in me walking out so far with her and then sending her. Which is kind of why I want to get this new pup on the whistle. My biggest thing is do they mind on voice when you don't have a whistle handy.
Thanks for the help I will check out that book,
Keep em coming.
06-23-2003, 10:50 AM
Forgetting the whistle isn't ever a problem. I have one on each laynard I own, so if I forget the whistle, I forget the calls etc.
Actually, what you are running with your dog are not true blinds, because your dog is seeing the bird, or smelling it. You are basically getting the dog to the area of the fall and allowing it to hunt the bird up.
As far as the dog minding only when the whistle is present, then its time to go back to obedience training.
Check out Dobbs's book from Tritronics. I think it will answer all your questions.
06-23-2003, 11:19 AM
Cool thanks alot, I will get this new pup whistle whipped then. Good Idea with the lanyard I will go ahead and do that,
Thanks a bunch!!!
06-23-2003, 11:26 AM
cself02 ... I've trained pointers and now a Lab over the past 45 years. Every one was trained dual voice/whistle. More to minimize my hoarse throat than anything else. I used the whistle with pointers who ranged more than 100 yards and/or hunting in heavy cover where I could lose eye contact close by, or even in windy conditions when my voice couldn't be heard 50 ayrds away.
In the Retriever games, compliance with a whistle command is mandatory. As you probably noticed, the whistle is used for three primary functions: 1) Stop-sit and look at me for further instructions; 2) you are in the fall area so hunt-em-up right there, and 3) Get your butt back in HERE right now. :Rich:
Some of those commands are supplemented by verbals commands (overs) and hand signals with body language. The whistle, IMO, is most effectively used to tell your retriever that he's doing the right thing or to "look at me for revised instructions." After all ... you are a partnership and effective communication is vital to have a successful partnership.
By the way, although you can't use an e-collar during competition, I use a Pro-200 while hunting that has a TONE feature in the collar that the dawg CAN hear, and I use that in PLACE of a whistle for certain things, most particularly "atta boys."
We hunt from a blind so there are frequent situations where my yellar dawg is out of the blind airing or on a retrieve when another flight of birds appear. Cappy has been trained to stop in his tracks if in shallow water or on land (95% of the time he will sit) WHEN he hears me get on the duck call. If I happen to be out of the blind with him and hit the call, that will usually bring him to instant heel-sit and hunker down next to me with the only thing moving are his eyes as he scans the sky for incoming. That practice became pretty proficient by Cappy's 2nd season and mastered in his 3rd. Neat technique for a duck hunter to teach.
06-23-2003, 02:34 PM
I am sure I will get to it later but What are the exact whistle commands, I know one blast is sit, and three or four is comeback, but what is the search two? I like the duck call Idea that is pretty cool.
06-24-2003, 11:00 PM
Casey i'd have to say the whistle will work but just get the basics down first ya know?? and then introduce the whistle take it show. I've got Marsh sitting when I blaste whistle once and when I blaste it many times she comes. I'm sure you won't have much problems you got a smart pup.
vBulletin® v3.8.4, Copyright ©2000-2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.