salthunter
03-20-2007, 06:12 PM
Here you go guys.
Fairly simple.
I use some of the most common and well know sets effectivly.
For footholds on land just production style dirtholes. I use an 1 3/4" auger for the hole and like em deep when possible. with the trap against the hole for fox and coyote. Im a fan of smaller traps for land animals. For big bumble foot northern reds a 1 1/2 coil is plenty. I really liked those old strong 1 1/2 offset montgomerys for coyotes (like the Helfrich but they we expensive and not around long). I dont trap yotes western style at all.
I seldom used flat sets only because its too hard to find them at times. And blinds sets prove your a trapper for land animals.
Conibears, I started with 210's.
I set for coon just like in my brothers videos, only slower and not as good
Beaver, loved a big snare cable, with a relaxing lock on dry land. 6 feet of cable in a willow patch make a catch intresting. Just cut the cable and release the little guys and damaged beaver. I was really into blind snaring perpendicular to banks .
Check out those MB 750.s the idea started when my brother showed his partner my prototypes. He just got them done.
Muskrat. In Minnesota we trapped them right on the houses. I used big traps, All those old #2 Northwood coilsprings put rats down fast.One year i set a feed bed, by the end of the week (6 days) it was a 4 foot lodge and i took 36 rats off of it. But conibears are easy too . We trapped rats inside the houses after freeze-up
Mink; I should have written a book or made the videos. I didnt know anyone that used 3/8 re-bar T-stakes and long chain, and double pocket sets when I started. Pocket sets with the trap directly below the lip ,... most of the time. And again blinds sets are more effective if you know what your doing and have a high catch percentage.
I ve done a bunch of expirementing and have used lots of sets. I just do whats fast for me in the area I trapped
Fairly simple.
I use some of the most common and well know sets effectivly.
For footholds on land just production style dirtholes. I use an 1 3/4" auger for the hole and like em deep when possible. with the trap against the hole for fox and coyote. Im a fan of smaller traps for land animals. For big bumble foot northern reds a 1 1/2 coil is plenty. I really liked those old strong 1 1/2 offset montgomerys for coyotes (like the Helfrich but they we expensive and not around long). I dont trap yotes western style at all.
I seldom used flat sets only because its too hard to find them at times. And blinds sets prove your a trapper for land animals.
Conibears, I started with 210's.
I set for coon just like in my brothers videos, only slower and not as good
Beaver, loved a big snare cable, with a relaxing lock on dry land. 6 feet of cable in a willow patch make a catch intresting. Just cut the cable and release the little guys and damaged beaver. I was really into blind snaring perpendicular to banks .
Check out those MB 750.s the idea started when my brother showed his partner my prototypes. He just got them done.
Muskrat. In Minnesota we trapped them right on the houses. I used big traps, All those old #2 Northwood coilsprings put rats down fast.One year i set a feed bed, by the end of the week (6 days) it was a 4 foot lodge and i took 36 rats off of it. But conibears are easy too . We trapped rats inside the houses after freeze-up
Mink; I should have written a book or made the videos. I didnt know anyone that used 3/8 re-bar T-stakes and long chain, and double pocket sets when I started. Pocket sets with the trap directly below the lip ,... most of the time. And again blinds sets are more effective if you know what your doing and have a high catch percentage.
I ve done a bunch of expirementing and have used lots of sets. I just do whats fast for me in the area I trapped