View Full Version : .243 questions

07-13-2008, 08:44 PM
I bought a .243 over a .22-250 since they are "basically" ballistally equal on the light end of the .243 spectrum and a .243 can handle heavier weight bullets for the potentail of being a backup deer gun.

I bought a rem 700 CDL with the intent of sending it to a smith to bed, restock, and cut 2" from the barrel for the ultimate yote carry rifle.

problem is that I was able to develop a pretty good load (55 gr blitzking over41 gr. of varget, fed match primers) that on a cold bore, will have a three shot group .25 MOA. it opens up after the barel heats.

question now is whether to follow through with the plan or just restock the thing with a mcMillan and call it good. I'm thinking that free floating the barrel might get me 90% o the improvement that the bedding job would do and eliminate the groups blowing up after the first three rounds (realistically, the only ones I care about). Now I'm thinking that the rest of the work is overkill and not worth it.


Jezzolo AKA Isaac
07-13-2008, 09:31 PM
hey Justin, might have more luck postn this in the gun rack

Anyway I love that Varget powder with the 55gr in .243 win. I use the nosler ballistic tip with the same small group results.

If I was you id stay with what you have that you know what already works. If it was me i wouldnt do anything but maybe some trigger work and strap a high quality scope on it (dont know what you have on it now as you never mentioned)

07-14-2008, 05:45 AM
Have you thought about having the gun cryoed (think thats how you spell it) by all accounts after you drop it in the nitrogen tank at minus 400 ish that will straighten all the molecules that where bent while forging and heat or cold will never be a factor again.

From what I have read it makes a big difference if you shoot a lot.Again they say that your point of impact will not change no matter how hot or cold the barrel gets after this has been done.

Its not supposed to run more that a 150.00 or so plus shipping the gun both ways.

Something to think about anyway.

The Baron of Bufflehead
07-14-2008, 05:52 AM
If your groups open up as the barrel heats, that's a bedding problem - especially if your groups are stringing after the barrel is warm. Try glass bedding the action, recoil lug and first 1" of barrel and free float the rest. Odds are that will cure the trouble. There could be some internal stress in the barrel, which cryo would cure... but I'd say 99% chance that bedding will be the cure.

I had an older Ruger 77 sporter in .243 that did the same thing with 58gr. Vmax's. 3 shots, each from a cold barrel, turned in near 1/2", but after 3-4 shots straight I'd be lucky to make 1 1/2". I never got around to bedding it, as school expenses forced a sale.:CY:

For a coyote rifle, it's those cold barrel shots that matter most anyway. If there are still some targets available after you have fired 1, or maybe 2 shots, aiming is not that critical.:rf:

07-14-2008, 01:34 PM
If there are still some targets available after you have fired 1, or maybe 2 shots, aiming is not that critical.:rf:

That there is funny I don't care who ya are! :LOL:

Some good advise in the above post's that I can't add anythg to. Just good luck with what you decide and have fun shooting.

07-18-2008, 05:35 PM
I agree with the Baron. It is a bedding probem. I would first try to free float the barrel. Remingtons are sent with a contact point with the barrel just behind the front sling swivel. It is an obvious bump. File it off. If that doesn't help then you can try to bed the action and the first few inches of the barrel as the Baron suggested. I would also look at hogue with the full length aluminum bedding block (pricey). http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat602007-cat20811&id=0003631221973a&navCount=2&podId=0003631&parentId=cat20811&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=IJ&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat20811&hasJS=true

The CDL stock is good looking though. The ultimate is to have a gunsmith or yourself add aluminum pillar bedding sleaves and then glass bed the entire length of the stock